Feature Article

Destination Bodrum: An Overview  of the Peninsula

By Stacie Leone

The Bodrum Peninsula is a mountainous outcrop at the northwestern corner of the Gulf of Gokova, extending both westward and southward.  Both coasts are carved by dozens of coves and inlets of various sizes and dotted with resort towns, each of which retains its own distinct personality in terms of topography, climate and the types of visitors who frequent them.  The scenery varies considerably from dry rocky, mountains to lush fir forests.  Its topography affects the local weather systems causing micro-climates throughout the peninsula.  The northern region, for example, tends to receive more rain, while the western side of the peninsula faces the Aegean Sea and is ruled by Zephyr - the God of the West Wind - during summer. This side of the peninsula is usually cooler than the south side where it may be sweltering hot. The area is full of citrus groves, tangerines and lemons.

Bodrum and its environs had very limited contact with the rest of Turkey up to the 1960s.  In fact, there was not even a road to Bodrum until that time.  Being a seaside town, the relationship with the outside world was always through the sea and the main trade was with the Greek island of Rhodes since Ottoman times.  After the Ottomans, the ferries between Istanbul and Iskenderun used to stop in the harbors of Mugla.  The main livelihood of Bodrum residents used to be fishing and sponge diving, however, with the improvement of roads, tourism has become the main industry in the area.

The Turkish Committee of Tourism declared Bodrum a priority area for tourism in 1970.  Over the following decade, yacht tourism in the Mediterranean began to take off and the subsequent opening of the Bodrum Airport in the early 1980s changed the face of the Bodrum peninsula forever. 

If not exactly pleasing to the senses, the highway that takes you from Bodrum to the rest of the peninsula - with its miles of sprawling shopping complexes, real estate offices, and interior decoration shops, not to mention traffic congestion - is at least an indication of the area's astounding tourism and real estate explosion.  A further indication of the huge influx of holidaymakers and real estate owners are several new private hospitals and large chain grocery stores, such as Migros and Gima, which have sprung up over the past three or four years.

A chance to get away from the bustle of Bodrum and wander around villages that seem to have been forgotten by time is still possible, if you are willing to go inland. Many people who come to Bodrum never venture beyond the city or the beach.  For those who want to explore the region for its natural beauty and unique scenery, as well as observe "the scene" put on by summer partiers in other parts of the peninsula, we have prepared a perfect "Guide."

Torba
Just a five-minute drive from Bodrum, tucked into a protected bay at the extreme northeast corner of the peninsula, lies the pretty seaside village of Torba.  It is a favorite destination for Turkish holidaymakers who have exquisite summerhouses surrounded by flower filled gardens lining the small streets. Early and later in the year the village is relatively unhurried but during July and August swells with families from Istanbul and the atmosphere is lively and very Mediterranean.

Torba's quiet, pebbly beaches have attracted a number of four and five star resorts including Rixos Resort and Samara Hotel as well as a few boutique hotels.  The harbor accommodates local fishing boats and luxury yachts alike, tied up side by side. At one side of the bay is the busy Blue Dolphin beach where you can try your hand at a variety of water sports. Alternatively, for snorkeling enthusiasts Torba's pebble beach, with its ruins of an old church and a handful of restaurants, is a short drive from the village center.  Scattered along the sea front you'll find many restaurants and bars, some little more than a palm thatched dining terrace, others with lively music and sophisticated menus.

Torba is also a popular haven for local fishermen and yachtsmen seeking to unload their catch or simply to enjoy the quiet haven of the well-protected harbor.  An easy getaway from noisy holidaymakers is to hop on board the ferryboat which makes daily runs across the unspoiled Gulf of Gulluk to Didim, a wonderful opportunity to view the magnificent Temple of Apollo.

For those wishing to stay in Bodrum for an extended period, Torba's Villa Arkan, a charming apart-hotel lies directly on the Torba sea front and is built into the rocky hillside. This imposing villa with its many levels has exquisite panoramic views across the bay.  It also has a swimming pool and nicely landscaped garden.

Golturkbuku - Lifestyles of the…
Golturkbuku, the summer haven of Turkey's rich and famous, according to one long-time visitor and bar owner, is the province of the "blue bloods" of Turkey.  Who knew Turks had blue blood?  Anyway, the atmosphere noticeably changes - from haute couture to hoi polloi -- as soon as one crosses the little wooden bridge near the taxi stand.  Though the primary concern of visitors to Golturkbuku may be to 'see and be seen,' it nevertheless has a community spirit.  That is, if your community consists of the well-heeled and well known.   Some even venture to compare the resort town to St. Tropez. 

With the names of major alcohol and tobacco products emblazoned on almost every available surface, from deck pillows to bar walls and tabletops, you could easily mistake the trendy beach of Turkbuku for the set of a glamorous television-advertising shoot.  Favorite hot spots of Golturkbuku's trendy visitors include Havana and Tampa beach clubs, Ship Ahoy and Mavi bar for nightlife, Mey restaurant for fine dining, and Maki, Divan Palmira and Atami Hotel which has its own small harbor, for the finest in hotel accommodations.  Five-star Iberhotel opened just last year is one of the newest and chicest choices of Turkbuku fans and has deluxe, high-tech business meeting facilities as well.  Of course many have also invested in residential summer property here and the number of luxury villas and hotel-like residences is on the steady increase.  The latest addition is Evotelev.  Designed by renowned Turkish architect, Eren Talu, it is a masterpiece of sleek, minimalist design with a definite touch of beach front atmosphere. 

In the summer, the coves of the town are full of yachts from around the world. Though its waters may be overrun with seafaring traffic in summer, Golturkbuku, 14 kilometers from the city of Bodrum, is still the "greenest" town in the area with trees and foliage everywhere.  Renamed in 2001, Golturkbuku is the "marriage" of the villages of Golkoy (Karyanda) and Turkbuku.  This twin city is blessed with a wonderful beach and has a good selection of seafood caught in the Mandalya Gulf.  Archaeology buffs can take a walk into the hills and visit the remains of Karyanda, a Lelege city founded 5,000 years ago. No excavations have been undertaken yet but the outer limits of the site have been identified.

Gundogan (Farilya)
This little village is still more or less unspoiled despite the holiday developments on the surrounding hills. Gundogan, ancient Farilya, has always been an important town for fishing, sponge diving, olive and tangerine growing. Unfortunately, some of those activities stopped in recent years.

Gundogan is located 18 kilometers from the city of Bodrum.  It is also at about the midpoint between Yalıkavak and Golturkbuku (about 3 kilometers in each direction).   Gundogan, translated into English means "where the day dawns".  It is also said that the flowers in its mountains survive all seasons and never wilt. This town is basically a residential area with a major number of foreigners with summerhouses in the vicinity.  It has a small beach and a dock for yachts.  For the land lover, there are many opportunities for hiking with another unexcavated Lelege city nearby.  Speaking volumes for Gundogan is the fact that many high-level members of the diplomatic service, active and retired, have made it their summer retreat.

One of the latest arrivals in Gundogan is the 220-room Baia Hotel, opened last year, which distinguishes itself with its glossy, white on white, angular design.  Like other mega resorts in its category it has several swimming pools, a spa and many restaurants.

New residential real estate projects, many of which have been in progress for several years, abound in Gundogan.  One that is near completion is the heavily advertised "On the Rocks" complex which is targeting Turkish buyers.  It consists of about 12 villas on a barren hill overlooking the sea. 

Horseback riders will delight in Farilya Horse farm, located just above the town center in the hills, where you can also have breakfast. 

Yalikavak
The fertile land of this area, bedecked with lemon and tangerine orchards, has for many years supplied bountiful harvests of olives and citrus fruit in addition to an incredible number of species of wild herbs and other flora. These have endowed the indigenous cuisine with a great variety of natural ingredients resulting in numerous local gastronomic specialties, including a wide selection of vegetarian dishes.

Yalikavak is located 18 kilometers from the city of Bodrum and is on the northwestern tip of the peninsula.  The village was first settled 2,000 BC and has ruins from the Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine eras. Its western breezes during the hot summer months make it a particularly popular spot.  The sturdy windmills on the hill overlooking the village can attest to the strength of the wind.

Once a small sponge-divers village, Yaliıkavak has become an important resort town. It has fine beaches, including two major beach clubs, coves and a captivating sunset.  Hotels, holiday villages and fine restaurants abound.  Just a few minutes walk from Yalikavak is the new state-of-the-art marina, with a capacity for 420 yachts and ships and boats in all shapes and sizes.  You can shop or eat in the marina complex or just enjoy a stroll around the grounds.  (See our feature story in this issue about Yalikavak for more information).

Gumusluk
Gumusluk, possibly the last refuge for bohemian spirits, is a quiet town set amidst tangerine groves and foliage and its shoreline is decked with seafood restaurants.   Thanks to strictly enforced building prohibitions, the sea front has kept its original appearance and photogenic fishing village charm. This is the ideal spot for peace and quiet, with the added advantage of many excellent fish restaurants along the small waterfront where you can sit comfortably next to the gently lapping sea. 

Gumusluk recently became the site of Bodrum's first known 'ashram' called "Kun" which sits on a hill overlooking the town.  Visitors to Kun practice yoga and meditation in a sparse environment.  The town will also soon be graced with 'commune' style accommodations in the form of several small cottages (to be completed by summer 2006), being built by the former Turkish supermodel, Merve Onal.

The cove of Gumusluk is the best-protected natural shelter along a shoreline that is constantly exposed to the wind. Also, the entrance to the cove is concealed by the land in such a way that one can find it only if one knows exactly where to look. For this reason, Gumusluk is strategically important and is part of the military zone today.  A strip of sand encircles the cove. To the right of it is a little island called Tavsan (Rabbit). When the sea is shallow, you can literally walk to this island via the small causeway of stones that was built in Hellenistic times. While making your little "walk" to this island, be sure to check out the remains of ruins underneath the water. The stones are still here, but the rabbits that gave their name to the island alas have all but vanished.

Gumusluk, 23 kilometers from the city of Bodrum, has been the scene of some momentous events in history. When Anthony and Cleopatra set sail for Rome - they made a stop here.  Myndos is where Brutus and his fellow conspirators hatched their plan to murder Julius Caesar and it is also the site Brutus fled to and hid for a time after the assassination.

Gumusluk roughly means a form of "silver".  Piri Reis explains how this village got its name in his writings in 1521.  He explains that during the reign of Sultan Mehmed II, flourishing silver mines existed near the town and the city was named after them.  However, the locals argue that Gumusluk gets its name due to the silvery light emitted by the sea's phosphorescence at night. The history of the town is at least as old as that of Bodrum.  Gumusluk is the site of a Lelege town founded 5,000 years ago, then called Myndos. No excavations have ever been undertaken here, however, records are full of references to the city. Though it may be one of the cozier places left on the Bodrum peninsula, that doesn't mean Gumusluk is impervious to all-inclusive holiday resorts just a stone's throw away, such as four-star Crystal Hotel.  The hotel has 80 rooms, four suites, three restaurants and is built into one of the town's hillsides, just above the sea.  It is popular with Dutch tourists in particular.

Choosing a restaurant in Gumusluk is not easy and it's not for lack of choices.  One of the oldest establishments is Ali Riza Restaurant - in business for 45 years.  Open all year for lunch and dinner, Ali Riza blends in with the long, close-set row of homey fish restaurants lining the sandy shore.  A friendly, family-run place, its décor is simple and casual.  Try the "su borek" (Turkish pastry) grilled red snapper and homemade traditional Turkish deserts.  Gumuscafe is another fine choice and can be found all the way at the end of the lineup of other establishments, so it makes for a nice quiet retreat.  Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served.  But it's mostly known for its fresh meze and seasonal fish; locals also know the place as "the oven".

Ortakent (Muskebi)
Ortakent, known in olden times as Muskebi, is renowned for its fragrant tangerine orchards and the bluest of seas and is another relatively unspoiled, quiet reprieve compared to the rest of the peninsula.  Located 12 kilometers from the city of Bodrum, it has a sandy and fine pebble beach and cool but crystal clear waters.

The cove of Ortakent has managed to preserve its foliage. The location is excellent for swimming and all water sports Archeologists from Ankara University discovered a necropolis in Ortakent in the 1960s.  Based on these findings, it has been proven that a small Mycenaean settlement existed and that they arrived in the 13th century.  These tombs can be seen on the hills overlooking the Aegean Sea.

For rustic, yet charming accommodations, check out Yilmaz Hotel which sits right on the beach among a lovely garden and consists of 30 rooms, a bar and restaurant.

Kadikalesi
Six kilometers north of Turgutreis is the small beachside village of Kadikalesi (Judge Castle). Above the town on a hill sits a surprisingly well-preserved 100-year-old Greek church with inscriptions above the doorway. Also, the ruins of what appears to be a citadel (known as Cadı's Castle) are located at the cape overlooking the bay.  The remains of the city of Pedasos, founded five thousand years ago, this location has not been excavated and is under the protection of the Ministry of Culture so construction is not permitted in the vicinity.  The small sandy cove of Kadikalesi offers shelter from summer breezes and a few small jetties and restaurants are scattered around on this quiet beach, which has spectacular sunsets.
Kadıkalesi has a choice of hotels and holiday villages and recently became the home of the all-inclusive Yasemin Resort Hotel, a large, family-style retreat overlooking the beautiful bay.  The town of Kadikalesi has a lot of construction of new homes facing inland.

Turgutreis
Turgutreis, located 18 kilometers from Bodrum, is said to be expanding so fast that it may soon outgrow the city of Bodrum.  In fact, tourists staying in neighboring villages say they go to Turgutreis for shopping instead of traveling all the way into Bodrum city.  The city center, now a modern metropolis, was redeveloped just few years ago. 

Turgutreis takes its name from Kaptan-i Derya Turgut Reis who lived from 1485-1565 (known as Dragut in the West) and was a famous Ottoman corsair born here.  Turgut joined the Ottoman navy and rose to commander. He was killed during an abortive siege of Malta in 1565. 

Almost one third of Turgutreis province is on the coastline with 2.5 km of sandy beach close to the city center.  Regular boat trips are available to explore the bays of Turgutreis and nearby islands.  A sunken ship near Yassiada Island prompted underwater archaeological investigations, which are now in progress.   Other important finds from the area are now on display in the Bodrum Museum.  Also worth visiting is clean and quiet Karaincir (black fig) beach which is 500m long.  The magnificent Castle of Aspat, built by the Genoesens as a lookout and refuge, sits atop a steep mountain just beyond Karaincir.   The area was also the site of the ancient city of Jerma during the reign of Moselous.  The little known district of Kemer has a lighthouse (Huseyin Burnu Feneri) built by the French in 1931.  The large beach in this area was supposedly once covered in wild berries and black woods; and the centuries old Kemer cistern still provides water to the people of Kemer.

With its rapid expansion, Turgutreis gained a number of four and five star hotels and resorts including the Aegean Dream Resort, Hotel Mandalinci (which is also a major real estate broker), Magic Life Bodrum, Club Armonia, which offers seaside resort condominiums, the large and luxurious Yasmin Bodrum resort, convention center and spa, Club Kadikale holiday village and the all-inclusive La Blanche resort.  If you are heading to the beach independently, do so early if you expect to find a chair!

The biggest development in Turgutreis is the ultra-modern D-Marin Marina.  It has seven piers with an additional pier to handle ferryboat traffic.  This pier will have ferryboat service to/from Turgutreis to Datca, Didim, Kusadası, Marmaris and Fethiye all located on the Mediterranean and Aegean coasts of Turkey.  Additionally, Turgutreis is only five miles from the island of Cos in Greece and this marina will be the only one in the Bodrum area with the capability to handle the arrival of cruise ships from the Greek islands. The Marina also has a shopping arcade with various shops, supermarket, bank and cafes.  Also worth noting in Turgutreis is the Sevket Sabanci Park, located just south of the marina.  It is 5000 sq meters and includes jogging and walking tracks as well as an open-air theatre and cafes.

The restaurants and bars lined up along the Aegean in the city center offer a wide choice of selection from seafood to Mexican fare.   It may be wise to stick to established eateries with home cooking for - if not the finest ambiance - the best food at reasonable prices.  Our recommendations include Kalamis, a modest restaurant which is open all year, overlooks the marina and serves fresh fish as well as traditional Turkish meat dishes.  Hasan's place, established in 1990 is also open all year round and is famous for its Turkish pizza (lahmacun) and dishes cooked in claypots which are baked in a real claypot oven using olivewood for extra flavor.  Hasan's also has special menu items for vegetarians and kids.  Restaurant Lapikant is a beachfront eatery and bar with free beach chairs for customers.  Lapikant is popular with foreign tourists and serves mostly Turkish, seafood and some Italian dishes. 

Akyarlar (Kealonya)
Akyarlar, situated 22 kilometers from the city of Bodrum and to the south of the town of Turgutreis, is ideal for windsurfing and just gazing at the marvelous scenery of the Greek Aegean islands.  The area is known for its well-maintained camping sites, inexpensive and clean pensions and, because of its warm shallow seas, is one of the safest beaches for children.

At one time Akyarlar, a stone's throw from the Greek Island of Cos, was a popular Greek summer resort as several of the old houses that line the shore attest. Until recently the main occupation of Akyarlar was fishing and the small harbor would fill with the local fleet. Today the fishing fleets have been replaced by daily tour boats but Akyarlar still retains its tranquil charm. The remains of Termera, a city founded by the Leleges some five thousand years ago is just on the next cove over from Akyalar and is within walking distance.

Akyarlar is also known for its foliage, sandy beach, and excellent seafood.  There are several holiday villages in the area that are reasonably priced and attract mostly foreigners.  Among them 4-star Tansel Beach Hotel and 250-room Club Armonia, a large hotel and time-share resort.

Bitez
Situated amidst citrus and olive groves this is a village split in two. At the seaside small hotels and restaurants line the sandy beachfront, which is well known as a water sports hub great for wind surfing and water skiing.  Just a stroll from the sea to the inland village will take you along shady lanes where footpaths pass through dry riverbeds and criss-cross old irrigation channels. Such is the interest in this network of walkways that an American University is publishing a guide. Traditional rural life is centered in the inland village where shops cater to day-to-day needs and there is a lively weekly market. Bitez provides an excellent base for exploring the peninsula yet is only ten kilometers from the city of Bodrum.

Bitez has a fine, sandy beach and the sea is shallow and warm.  The town has a wide range of reasonably priced motels and pensions that attract domestic and international tourists on a low budget.   On the other hand it is also one of the favored dwelling places of former urbanites from Istanbul who now call Bodrum home.  No one knows restaurants like the locals and the consensus is that Four Seasons in the town of Bitez is not to be missed.

Gumbet
Just three kilometers away, Gumbet is the resort satellite of Bodrum, and unlike Bodrum has a long beach that extends around the bay. At the height of the summer season Gumbet nights are a people zoo that glares under the glow of enough rope lights to stretch from Gumbet to the nearby Greek Island of Kos. Numerous disco bars pound out every type of over amplified music, each vying to attract passing tourists.

The crowded streets are host to dozens of restaurants each offering every type of international dish from Indian curry to Mexican re-fried beans and Chinese chow mien to Italian pizzas, and even good old British Fish and Chips from the same kitchen.  Some recommendations include Irish Rover, an authentic Irish bar, run by an Irishman, and Turkish Delight, which serves traditional Turkish among other cusisines.

In the last few years, a few of 5-star resorts have joined the ranks of hotels and pensions in the area.   Among them Fuga, an unexpected reprieve from downtown Gumbet's dizzying array of merchandise on display and vacationers in t-shirts and bikini bottoms.  Fuga is in the process of adding honeymooners-only accommodations to its premises which will feature all of the luxuries of a private spa within each suite.  Fuga, which means escape, lives up to its name as a large spa resort until you get beachside where the atmosphere turns loud and lively.

Bodrum
In the high-season Bodrum is a bustling city bursting at the seams with Turkish and foreign tourists and the merchants who hope to earn a living from them.  Though the harbor is lined with restaurants offering almost every cuisine imaginable, the best eats are to be found at the far end of Neyzen Tevfik Street, opposite the marina.  Choice selections for the trendy who happen to come to town, include Kuba bar as well as the brand new Pure!, opened by the same owner (and Dutch partners) as Xuma Beach in Yalikavak.  Otherwise, locals favor Kismet a low-key establishment in Konacik, just outside the city center.  For nightlife, long time Bodrum visitors enjoy Hadi Gari, in business for almost three decades, which will offer special live music nights this year.   Bodrum is famous for the numerous and rowdy and wild bars lined up on Cumhuriyet Street which is frequented by the young and restless Turks and foreigners.  Again, locals and full time residents prefer the quieter reprieve of Kedi bar at the Oasis shopping mall, which features Turkish, Latin and other live bands every weekend.  It is a shoppers dream with souvenir shops, numerous jewelry shops, fashion stores (including some designer shops) and its famous Karada Marina located towards the end of Neyzen Tevfik Street.  The Marina has a capacity for 450 yachts and is state of the art including all services that yacht owners require and want.  It also has a fashionable shopping center with major name brands, cafes, restaurants, and supermarket and art gallery all under the same roof.  Also, don't miss visiting Bodrum's famous outdoor Food Bazaar (can be visited on Thursdays and Fridays) which is chock full of wonderful foodstuffs to include spices, preserves, fruits, vegetables and much more.  On the other hand, The Fabric Bazaar (Tuesdays) has an excellent selection of fabrics, bedcovers, sheets, pillowcases, curtains, tablecloths and an assortment of embroideries and laces.  Don't forget to bargain!

Yaliciftlik
A 20-minute ride from Bodrum takes one through pine forests on a winding road past whitewashed water catchers (gumbets) to the beach at Yaliciftlik. The first bay after the end of Karaada Island and marking the entrance to the Gulf of Gokova, this shingle beach has several small restaurants scattered around it. The eastern end of the beach is sandy and it is also possible to swim and sunbathe in solitude by the rocks a bit further on.

Four kilometers from Yaliciftlik ('Beach Farm') one comes to the farming village of Ciftlikkoy. The stone farmhouses are scattered around the hillside, and the main crops are pine honey collected from the beehives in the forests and figs grown in the surrounding orchards. Untouched by tourism, the village offers an interesting insight into local farming life on the Bodrum peninsula.

Yaliciftlik is 17 kilometers from the city of Bodrum. The combination of the endless hues of blue combined with the different hues of green of its foliage is the best way to describe Yalıciftlik.  At its peak, you will find the ancient city of Theangela.

The best way to explore the area is to take a Jeep Safari so that you can have the opportunity to observe local village life, and see the many fields and pastures in the area.  Also you will have the chance to observe the local villagers weaving traditional Turkish carpets and maybe even buy one!   Finally, the largest holiday villages, among them Sea Garden, are located in the town of Yaliciftlik.

We hope you have enjoyed our tour of Bodrum and its surroundings. Make sure you visit all or most of these lovely towns as they are all easily accessible from the city of Bodrum. 

Happy traveling!