Princes’ Islands: A Distinctive Destination of Istanbul
Just recently, the Council of the European Union declared Istanbul as the European Capital of Culture for the year 2010. During the elimination period, Istanbul challenged its competitors with an Aristotelian theme; “City of Four Elements”, where “Earth” symbolizes monuments and traditions that reflect the cultural richness, “Water” recalls the Bosphorus, Golden Horn and the Islands, “Air” refers to the minarets and church bells for the peace of religions, and last but not the least, “Fire” stands for the future, in other words; youth, technology and modern arts. 
Regarding the theme, the nine islands; Buyukada, Heybeliada, Burgaz, Kinali, Sedef, Kasik,Sivriada, Yassiada and Tavsanadasi, together with the sunken member Vordonisi, seem to have the most promising contribution to Istanbul’s new title. The 899 registered monuments comprised of architectural masterpieces of many mixed currents and buildings devoted to Islam, Christianity and Judaism; the lively presence of water; the indigenous “Islander” identity that has transformed from a mosaic of centuries; and the inspiration the Islands have been providing for famous poets, writers and artists are each a complementary asset for the “City of Four Elements Theme” at a synergic manner. Princes’ Islands, once a popular destination – along with Galata, Pera (Beyoglu) and the Bosphorus – to wealthy Istanbulites and foreigners during the Westernization era of the Ottoman Empire, will soon recover its reputation to become a famous destination for discriminating travelers.
What makes the Islands so unique? The physical closeness but spiritual remoteness to the city is one aspect, whereas meeting a new wonder at every corner is another. The cleanness of waters, with respect to those of a metropolitan city, and the dominance of pine forests are only two of what the Islands can offer you for recreation. Since there are no motor vehicles on the islands, you will need your feet, a phaeton, a bike or a donkey ride (merkep) to explore the mystery and the nature while your lungs will enjoy the fresh air. Moreover, try to rent a boat. That way you will have access to the uninhabited islands – Kasik, Yassiada, Sivriada, and Tavsanadasi – as well as the surrounding underwater heritage. The archipelago is resourceful under the sea as it is above. Once you are aboard, go fishing around Tavsanadasi – a fuse spot for the fishermen – dive for the shipwrecks around Sivriada, have a land break on Yassiada and rediscover the 19th century pleasure castle of Sir Henry Bulwer-Lytton (former British Consul) and visit the 1,000 years old underwater monastery of Vordonisi, at only 5m deep.
Back onto the shores of the inhabited islands; Buyukada, Heybeliada, Burgaz, Kinali and Sedef, you will meet architectural wonders as you wander down from the towns to up the hills. On the northern hill of Heybeliada, you will notice the former Theological School of Greek Orthodox Patriarchate. There do your best to get permission from the officials for a tour of the building, where you will find a library with around 40,000 rare books. On the neighboring island, Buyukada, first at its town you will walk through illustrious mansions, including that of Arab Izzet Pasha (where the Russian statesman Trotsky resided for four years and wrote his “Prinkipo Letter”) and as you climb up the first hill, Isa Tepesi, you will be greeted by Christos Monastery and Prinkipo Palace. Prinkipo Palace, once built as a deluxe casino hotel but later used as an orphanage due to the Sultan’s veto of gambling, is claimed to be the largest mono-block wooden structure in Europe. Again if you can get tour permission from the officials, make sure that you please your memory with the panoramic views of the top floor windows assembled by a golden ratio.
After a short forest walk from Prinkipo Palace, you will end at the Luna Park Square. There you can taste Turkish barbeque specialties or take a donkey ride. Then, if you walk up the steep road right by the square, you will reach the highest hill of the Princes’ Islands, Yucetepe, which hosts the Greek Orthodox Monastery of Aya Yorgi (Saint George) visited by crowds of every religion twice a year. The venue also offers cozy facilities for wining against the sunset and the moonlight. Moreover, the fire watch tower, Adakule, is also nearby and good news is that a telescope, open to public access, will be installed soon.
Though many prefer the Islands in warm weathers, winter should not be considered an unattractive season. In a contrary manner; the solitude, brought by a seasonal population decline of some 400,000 to 10,000s, could very well take you to an inner journey and healing of the soul. If you would recall, one reason for Orhan Pamuk’s recent success at the Nobel Literature Prize was the impressions of his way of narrating melancholy as a distinctive characteristic of Istanbul. And to no surprise he is a man of Heybeliada.
Below is a brief guide for the Princes’ Islands…
Major Events:
•International Festival of the Princes’ Islands, July-August (one of the ECOC 2010 projects)
•Aya Yorgi Feast: April 23, September 24, Buyukada.
•Sait Faik Day: A memorial day for one the greatest Turkish storywriters, Burgazada.
Heritage Attractions: